Let’s talk about Wave’s ‘Sweet Spot’!

For most surfers, finding the “sweet spot,” the most powerful part of the wave, is part of the stirring and the challenge.
Some expert wave riders know this answer. But just some years ago it gets a science basis. Nick Pizzo, a Scripps Institution of Oceanography at the University of California researcher, has found the exact location on the wave where a surfer gains the greatest speed to get the best ride. This place is the best to be mainly when you want to accomplish a good barrel section!

“Based upon the speed and geometry of the wave, you can determine the conditions to surf a wave and also where on the wave the maximum acceleration, or ‘sweet spot,’ will be located,” said Pizzo, the author of the new paper and an avid surfer.

“Based upon the speed and geometry of the wave, you can determine the conditions to surf a wave and also where on the wave the maximum acceleration, or ‘sweet spot,’ will be located,”

Nick PizzoScripps PhD Researcher

The paper is entitled “Surfing surface gravity waves” and it was published in the Journal of Fluid Mechanics in 2017.

So, where is the “sweet spot?” Right inside the curl of the breaking wave!

More details in https://scripps.ucsd.edu/news/waves-sweet-spot-revealed?fbclid=IwAR0glgxyFDafh4X494EK0txQmuP8MChyu0pUxGq7vx46HDMAT02ytyHsIzE

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